Border Hopping
Those of us who are lucky enough to live in countries with miles of ocean frontage may look with pity at landlocked countries that are sadly lacking the blue salty stuff. They also have the uncomfortable situation of having friends on all sides, who could just as quickly morph into enemies. Zambia has more “friends” than most, with no less than eight other countries on its borders. The little town of Livingstone, in particular, is within striking distance of three of them. This does come with its perks, however, as few other places on the continent offer tourists the opportunity to “border hop” with such relative ease and experience not one, but several countries in a matter of days.
Just Over the Bridge
They share the Zambezi River, the magnificent Victoria Falls and the Victoria Falls Bridge, so it is no wonder that Zimbabwe is Livingstone’s most easily accessed neighbour. In less than an hour, visitors can land at Livingstone Airport, take a leisurely drive to the border post, hop over the bridge and find themselves in the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls.
To keep you amused: While Zimbabwe’s political turmoil has undoubtedly had an impact on the town’s number of tourists, those who venture across the bridge are rewarded with superb service and the kind of heartfelt hospitality that Zimbabweans are renowned for.
Victoria Falls offers adventure junkies a host of adrenaline filled activities to test their mettle, but the town’s major draw card remains its namesake, the Falls themselves.
While patriotic Zambians will be loathe to admit it, their neighbours certainly got the lion’s share of the Falls’ best views. Even during the dry season, the staggering volume of water that plunges over these sheer cliffs is spectacular to behold. For a real treat though, plan your trip during the rainy season when the spray of the aptly named “Smoke that Thunders” keeps the surrounding rain forest permanently watered. Many people tote along their umbrellas at this time of year, but the weather is usually so hot that it’s often far more pleasant to just “go with the flow” and get thoroughly soaked!
A place to hang your hat: The iconic Victoria Falls Hotel has been the town’s bastion of all things refined since it first opened in 1904, and even today offers a wonderfully genteel place to stay.
The hotel overlooks the beautiful Victoria Falls Bridge with the Falls’ distinctive plume of spray in the distance. The best way to soak up the view is to relax on the terrace for traditional afternoon tea, which comes complete with cucumber sandwiches and jam scones.
In the evenings this is also the place to sit and enjoy the hotel’s signature cocktail (the “I Presume”) before moving into the Livingstone Room for dinner. This really is a trip back in time where steaks are flambéed at your table and a tuxedoed maestro tinkles the old ivories of the resident baby grand.
For more information visit http://www.africansunhotels.com/.
On the Other Side of the River
The road to Botswana runs perpendicular to the Zambezi River and after about an hour or so opens up to the bustling border crossing with its rows of waiting trucks. Luckily, human traffic is processed far more speedily, and once your passport is stamped, you only need to hop onto a speedboat to zip over to the other side.
To keep you amused: It is appropriate to arrive in Northern Botswana by boat, as great rivers play such an integral role in this part of the country. Driving away from the border post, it is striking how much drier the countryside is here compared to that of neighbouring Zambia. That is, until you enter the Chobe National Park and make your way towards its namesake.
The Chobe River cuts a colourful blue and green swathe through this otherwise dusty landscape, bringing with it life, vibrancy and the kind of abundant wildlife encounters that seem more suited to something out of a National Geographic special.
The river banks, its waters and its many islands teem with wildlife, making this one of Southern Africa’s best safari destinations. A morning boat ride delivers sightings of crocodiles and hippos, herds of buffalo, and a kaleidoscope of birdlife, including kingfishers and fish eagles. An afternoon game drive reveals yet more encounters, including flood plains filled with giraffe and antelope, and whole families of elephants snoozing under the shade of majestic baobab trees.
A place to hang your hat: The luxurious Ngoma Safari Lodge is a short drive from the Ngoma Gate of the Chobe National Park and an hour’s drive from the border, making it a very convenient choice from which to explore the surrounding bush.
It also offers an unrivalled view from its perch overlooking an animal filled plain, and one barely needs to leave the comfort of your bed to watch the wildlife pass on their way to the river.
The main lodge has been built to make the most of the striking beauty of several magnificent baobab trees, one of which shades a viewing deck. This is the perfect spot for animal spotting during the day and star gazing as night falls.
For more information, visit http://www.ngomasafarilodge.com/.
Just Stay Put
While a host of exciting experiences beckon from across Livingstone’s many borders, there are also more than enough reasons to just put your feet up and enjoy the hospitality of the town itself. Perhaps it comes as a happy coincidence of having to “play nice” with the country’s many neighbours, but its inhabitants are some of the friendliest you will encounter in this part of Africa. Grins are the order of the day here, and it would be unusual indeed if visitors to Livingstone left without experiencing at least one or two instances of the infectious Zambian sense of humour.
To keep you amused: Like Victoria Falls, Livingstone offers its visitors just as many opportunities to sign indemnity forms for a whole host of nerve-testing adventure activities. One of the latest crazes is high speed jet boats which propel screaming passengers at break-neck speeds through the twists and turns of the Zambezi River.
More sedate river cruises are also available for those who prefer the wildlife of the region as opposed to its wild side. One of the best ways to take in the beauty of the area, though, is from the air, and visitors have a large number of options to get airborne, from microlight and helicopter flights to romantic hot air balloon rides.
A place to hang your hat: The four-star David Livingstone Safari Lodge and Spa makes the most of its serene river setting. All of the rooms face onto the river, shaded riverside decks are perfect for leisurely lunches, and the resident Lady Livingstone gently plies the river at sunset to allow guests the opportunity of some cocktail accompanied game viewing.
As if the beautiful natural surroundings were not relaxing enough, the hotel offers added pampering opportunities at its onsite spa, while food lovers can pamper their taste buds in one of its two restaurants.
Visit http://www.dlslandspa.com/ for more information.
Story by Nicky Furniss
