Lazing on the River
There is a special allure about a river safari. It has a charm reminiscent of bygone days when travel was more about the journey than the arrival. Time had no urgency, passengers were serenely nonchalant, deck-chair spectators with boots crossed on the gunwale of the upper deck and gin and tonic in hand while gliding effortlessly along.
These kinds of journeys inspired many an adventurer with a flair for style and grace to travel back in the days when Africa’s interior was all but a blank space on yellowed maps. It was a time when African travel was still in its infancy, but also perhaps at its zenith. Since those hedonistic days of yore, the river safari has all but disappeared. It has been succeeded by developments in aviation and automobile technology that, although far more efficient, have effectively removed the art of timeless travel. Until recently, that is.
One of the most wildlife prolific riverfronts is a place where no less than four African countries (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe) share a border. It is a rich, sodden land dominated by the confluence of two significant rivers, the Zambezi and the Chobe. Both rivers cut broad grey-green swathes through the upper reaches of the Kalahari, carving a giant v-shape that is the culmination of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. This region is virtually inaccessible by road, as the two mighty rivers seasonally flood so that the land becomes an impassable quagmire. Impassable to vehicles, yes, but not to animals which constantly ford the rivers in sizable numbers so as to exploit the lush pastures of the flood plains. The land teems with buffalo, lechwe, impala, waterbuck and puku, while a host of predators follow hot on their hooves. Most noteworthy are the elephants that arrive in such multitudes that it becomes difficult to have them out of constant vision. The rivers themselves provide a home to a bounty of river-dwelling creatures, such as thousands of hippo, huge crocodiles and great shoals of predatory tiger fish and gregarious river bream.
The only way to really access this marshy environment is by boat. The maze of channels and waterways that criss-cross the plains is seemingly endless. Once on the water, one is presented with spectacular game viewing as animals arrive in droves from the dry hinterland to quench their parched throats. Game viewing from the comfort of a boat also ensures views unimpeded by vegetation, while the animals themselves seem less threatened by the presence of a water craft. This allows for wonderfully up close and personal encounters.
The boat in question is the Nguni Voyager, a modern 45 ton riverboat, which has been purpose built for this environment with a flat hull, low draft and an impressive three-tier series of decks. The interior is plush and opulent, in keeping with the highest standards expected by any Victorian gentleman. There are five grandiose en suite cabins on the cool lower deck, while the upper deck boasts an airy dining room, a lounge with Nguni leather couches and a plunge pool to add a modern, if not unwelcome, twist to the old art of river cruising. The third and highest deck is the ideal place to sit back and enjoy that obligatory African sundowner.
As with any luxury lodge, the service on board is impeccable and there is always attentive staff on hand to refill the obligatory G&T. In true colonial style, four meals are prepared daily: two main meals (brunch and dinner) and two light meals (early breakfast and high tea). The lounge and dining area enjoys a 270 degree view of the surrounding landscape, so it’s a great place to spend the day.
The Nguni Voyager is not only able to cruise along the length of the Chobe waterfront in style, but is also able to explore the largely inaccessible Zambezi River with its vast network of hidden channels and coves. This brings into play a whole host of extra “activities”. For one, the bird watching is far better, since the myriad of channels, islands and impenetrable marshes provide the ideal sanctuary for rare and threatened species like African skimmers, Collared pratincoles and Wattled cranes. And if you are partial to a bit of sport, the tiger fishing is superb. The Nguni Voyager is well equipped for fishing and they provide the tackle, bait and extensive expertise to land and then release the big one.
The riverboat is a grand and dignified way to explore this watery part of Africa. It is also easily accessible. Guests can fly directly to Livingstone in Zambia from Johannesburg and then, after a visit to the Victoria Falls, can take a short drive to the Caprivi confluence where the Nguni Voyager staff will be delighted to welcome you aboard a safari of sumptuous elegance.
For more information, visit www.ngunivoyager.com.
Story & Pix © Adam Cruise
